Sunday, January 29, 2012

Is That Ice Safe?

Below is an article from a past issue of Field & Stream.  I really wanted to feature it at this time, especially considering the unusually warm weather we have been seeing.  Stay safe out on that ice people!


Survival: Stay Safe On The Ice

Our expert gives tips on how to tell whether ice is safe for ice fishing—and what to do if someone falls through.



When I was a teenager, I cracked through the surface of an Ohio strip-mine pond during a December pheasant hunt and couldn't hoist myself back onto the ice. My friend Bill Morris extended his Stevens side-by-side to pull me out, to date the only time I've felt good about looking down the barrels of a shotgun.
Ice safety has been no small concern to me ever since, especially considering that I now live in Montana, where you don't have to go ice fishing to find your progress regularly interrupted by ice. Here's what you need to know about the hard water.
Strong Impression
Ice is generally said to be thick enough for walking and fishing at 4 inches. But not all ice is created equal. Clear ice that forms in December will be stronger and more elastic than the same depth of ice in March, when the bonds fusing the crystals have become stressed from spring sunlight, giving it a honeycombed appearance. Color also counts. Beware of black, gray, or milky ice, which lacks the strength of clear green or blue ice. Expect snowpack or standing water to weaken ice, and steer clear of exposed rocks and logs, which can conduct heat to the surrounding ice. Decaying vegetation also leads to unstable conditions.
Seldom is ice uniformly distributed across a lake surface. Ice near shore, which is subject to both conductive heat from the land and reflected sunlight from the bottom, will be weaker than ice that forms over open water. Springs and inlets can prevent the formation of safe ice. Even waterfowl and schooling fish, such as carp, can slow ice formation by circulating the water.
Touch and Go
The golden rule of walking on ice is “Probe as you go.” Use an ice chisel or spud bar with a sharpened point to act as your “ear to the ground”: Safe ice sounds solid and dull when you thump it. Rotting ice creaks or feels spongy. A single hard jab will usually break through ice less than 3 inches thick. Thickness can be approximated by studying the dry cracks that radiate through the ice (not to be confused with elevated pressure ridges, which you should strictly avoid).
If in doubt, test ice thickness with an auger or, more efficiently, a cordless, 1/4-inch drill with a 5/8-inch wood auger bit. Carry a retractable tape measure for a precise measurement.
Crawl, Don't Walk
The most important self-rescue tool for your ice-fishing jacket is a pair of ice picks. They are easily made by pounding nails into the ends of two 6-inch sections of wooden dowel (cut off the nail heads, sharpen the ends, and cover with corks when carrying). If you do fall through, turn around, face the ice you just crossed, and use the picks to claw yourself on top. Distribute your weight as widely as possible by rolling and crawling to thicker ice. If your companion falls through, toss him an empty Clorox bottle or a piece of wood tied to a 50-foot rope. Rope should be a standard part of your ice-fishing kit, but if you don't have any, try dragging a dead tree or very long branch from the shore, lying down to distribute your weight, and pushing it toward the victim. But if you approach too closely, you're running a grave risk of turning one man's potential tragedy into the certain death of two. It's safer to call 9-1-1 and hope help arrives in time.



Thursday, September 15, 2011

Wednesday, September 7, 2011

Remington 700 LSS .300 Ultra Mag Rifle/Scope Package

Remington Model 700 LSS (laminated stock stainless) chambered in .300 RUM (remington ultra mag)
  • 26" stainless barrel
  • laminated hardwood stock with raised check piece
  • floor plate
  • cartridge capacity 3+1
  • Leopold VX3 4.5-14x scope
  • gun and scope weigh 9.2 lbs
  • extra thick recoil pad
This is a beautiful rifle perfect for big game at any range!  The flat shooting, high velocity .300 RUM cartridge is known to be an excellent choice for all north american big game.  This gun has been safe stored and well cared for - it is in excellent condition.  Includes a top quality Leopold VX3 scope.
ASKING PRICE IS $1400 
Original price paid for gun and scope was $2200.

Ships free to anywhere in Canada!

This firearm is being sold "as is" and is a FINAL SALE.  No Returns, refunds or exchanges.  No Exceptions.

If you want more info please email sales@outdoorpursuitscanada.com or call toll free 1.855.HUNT.OPC



Thursday, August 4, 2011

Photography by Meissa Fitzmorris

OPC is pleased to announce, Meissa Fitzmorris - Outdoors/Nature photography.  Check out her current work on our site http://www.outdoorpursuitscanada.com/categories/Artwork/ 


More pieces will be available in the future, and all prints are fully customizable.  



Tuesday, July 26, 2011

Recipe Time! - Grilled Halibut Thai Style

Recipe from Alberta Outdoorsman magazine


This is a very good recipe for grilled halibut adapted from the ATCO Blue Flame Kitchen Romancing The Flame (2004) Cookbook, which has a distinct Thai flavour and a mouthwatering aroma.  It's a great recipe for a late season BBQ to finish off your summer's halibut catch.


INGREDIENTS:

  • 1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro
  • 1/4 cup olive oil
  • 3 tablespoons fresh lime juice
  • 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes
  • 1/4 teaspoon salt
  • 1 clove garlic (pressed)
  • 4 small (or 2 large) halibut steaks
Combine all the ingredients for the marinade in a mixing bowl and stir well.  Pour the marinade over the halibut steaks inside a large Ziploc plastic bag.  Seal the bag.  Let the marinade stand (refrigerated) for 1/2 hour, turning the bag over a few times to thoroughly coat the halibut steaks.  Fish should not be marinated longer than 30 minutes.  Remove the steaks from the plastic bag and place them on cut-to-shape trays of aluminum foil (sprayed with canola oil so they won't stick) on the grill of a BBQ, pre-heated to 300 F.  You don't need to add any other spices.  Grill the steaks for about 10-12 minutes then remove them with a spatula to a serving platter.  The steaks should flake easily when done.


I served the grilled halibut steaks with carrots glazed with balsamic vinegar.  Make lots of carrots; they'll go fast.  I also prepared some boiled, garden fresh white potatoes and some balsamic baked tomatoes.  Scrub or peel the new potatoes and gently boil them for 1/2 hours, in scalding-hot water with 1/2 teaspoon of salt.  Drain well and set aside in a covered Pyrex bowl.


I used the following ingredients for the balsamic baked tomatoes recipe:

  • 1 cup fresh bread crumbs
  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1 clove garlic (pressed)
  • 1 teaspoon thyme (crumbled)
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
  • 8 tomatoes (preferably Roma) halved, or quartered (lengthwise) depending on size
  • 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
Combine the bread crumbs, oil, garlic, thyme, salt and pepper in a mixing bowl and set aside.  Arrange the tomatoes on a baking dish (sprayed with canola oil) and drizzle some balsamic vinegar on top of them.


Next, sprinkle the tomatoes with the bread crumb mixture as a topping.  Bake at 350 F for 30 minutes until the tomatoes are tender and the bread crumb topping is crisp and browned.  Remove the baked tomatoes from the baking dish with a spatula to a serving platter.  There won't be any leftover tomatoes.


Overall, the grilled halibut, carrots, tomatoes and potatoes make for an excellent meal, which will be a hit with everyone.


Serve with a bottle of dry white wine or a beverage of your choosing.


Bon appetite!


Saturday, July 23, 2011

Razor Sharp!

How To Hone a Hunting Knife Into Something You Can Shave With

(story by Keith McCafferty - Field & Stream - March 2011)

BY NOW JUST ABOUT everyone has heard of 127 Hours, the critically acclaimed movie inspired by Aron Ralston, the climber who was pinned by a boulder in Utah and spent an hour sawing his arm off with a dull knife blade.  It's a dramatic film, but I don't think moviegoers would have had to close their eyes for as long if Ralston had carried a pocket hone in his pack, or even a piece of fine-grit sandpaper.
     Sharpening a knife so that it is keen enough to sever your limb, or, less drastically, skin and butcher a deer, really isn't that difficult.  All you really need to render a serviceable edge is a stone, a little spit and a steady hand, and even the spit is debatable.

True Grit     Traditional bench stones have largely been supplanted by diamond-encrusted surfaces and synthetics including ceramics and Japanese water stones.  I still prefer a good Arkansas bench stone, but as a rule the type of stone is not as important as its grit equivalent.  One that sports a medium-coarse grit (325 to 400) on one side and medium-fine 600 grit on the other will cover most sharpening bases.  Grandpa invariably prepared his stone with oil, on the assumption that it was needed to "float" away metal particles during honing.  Today, many experts recommend using water or no lubrication at all.  Shell out the extra sawbuck or two for a bench-size stone about 2 1/2" wide by 8 inches long.  It will have a more substantial surface that will sharpen a blade more evenly than a smaller stone.

Bevel and Burr     Most hunting or utility knives are ground to an edge bevel of about 20 degrees.  The easiest way to maintain that angle is with a blade guide that clamps over the knife's spine.  Drink decaf to keep a steady hand and you won't need a guide for blades shorter than 4 inches.  Place the edge against the stone at the correct angle and use either your thumb or two fingers on the back of the blade to guide it.  With light pressure, push the blade away from you, imagining that you are slicing off a thin sliver of the stone.
     Keep sharpening the same side, counting strokes, until a thin ridge of steel, called a burr, is raised on the other side (you can feel it by running your finger past the edge).  This means you've ground the bevel completely flush with the stone.  Only then should you turn the blade over.
     Using the identical number of strokes, repeat the process on the other side.  The blade should now be sharp enough to catch on your thumbnail and shave hairs off your forearm.  If you use your knife mostly for slicing cuts - field dressing, butchering, cutting cord and wood - stop right now.  The medium coarse stone leaves microserrations in the steel that give it more edge surface and bite for performing general camp chores.  For whittling and skinning, particularly fine detail work like caping a head for a trophy mount, or if you just want to show off by shaving your beard, you'll need to progress to a finer-grit stone.

Finishing Touch     To render your blade razor sharp, repeat the procedure with a 600-grit stone surface. This removes some of the microserrations left by the coarser stone.  Afterward you can polish the edge even keener with a 1,200-grit stone or a leather strop, which I prefer.  Prepare the strop - a wide leather belt will suffice - with a one-time application of a rubbing compound such as aluminum oxide.  Place the blade nearly flat against the strop with the edge facing you and stroke the blade down its length, spine first.  Flip the blade over and draw it back up.  A dozen reps should do it.
     I recommend supplementing your bench stones with a lightweight field sharpener.  It's just the ticker for touching up an edge when you're halfway done boning an elk - or you need to get through that last inch of gristle an muscle that attaches your hand to your forearm.

Photo Credits: Field & Stream



Check out our extensive selection of sharpeners!


http://www.outdoorpursuitscanada.com/categories/Sharpening-Systems/


We have everything from Japanese bench stones to lightweight pocket sharpeners to deluxe diamond systems!

Thursday, July 21, 2011

Time to Kill

To consistently punch tags, you need to shoot quickly and accurately.


By David E. Petzal - (Story Source: Field & Stream - March 2010)


In 2006, After two weeks of slogging through the bogs of Southern Alaska, I finally got a chance to drop the hammer on a bull moose.  The enraged ungulate was approaching at a rapid trot.  I was out in the open, and if I moved, he would see me.  This meant that as he came abreast I would have to mount the rifle, aim, and get the shot off in the space of a second or two before he figured out that something was amiss, or amoose, as it were.  I did, and he learned too late that the best-laid plans of moose and men gang aft agley.*


What's the Rush?
     Sometimes you have to shoot fast.  Not only that, but you have to be able to hit what you're shooting at.  Guides and outfitters whine that far too many hunters these days are no more capable of getting off a fast, accurate shot that they are of flying.  One outfitter told me, as he approached apoplexy, "You work your butt off to get them a perfectly easy offhand shot, and they look around for a benchrest."
     In areas where the game population is hunted hard, or where you will have to shoot at close range, you had best fire right smartly.  On the other hand, there are places where the critters are more curious than concerned about humans.  If you're one of the growing number of nimrods who shoot at over 300 yards, you probably have time for a leisurely first shot and two or three more as well.


Get in Touch With Your Inner Earp
     Wyatt Earp, who died in his bed at 80, summoned up the art of fast shooting to perfection.  When you slap leather, he said, you get your revolver clear of the holster just as fast as you possibly can, but then you take your sweet time aiming.
     Translated into rifle shooting, this means getting the gun to your shoulder quickly, with no wasted motion, all the while keeping your eyes on what you want to shoot.  Remember that you don't yank the stock straight up; you bring it forward, up and back in a short semicircle.
     When you gun is up and you are aiming, you have to make a fundamental decision: How much time do I have?  Experienced hunters can judge by an animal's behavior whether they have no time at all, or five seconds, or five minutes.  Whatever time they think they have, they will take all of it.
     If you're not an experienced hunter, it's better to assume you have no more than three seconds.  So, pick a spot on the critter, aim for it, and when the crosshairs are on it or close, pull the trigger.  Do not keep aiming, hoping your sight picture will get better.  It won't.


Practice Makes Perfect
     I've said it before, and I will say it again (because, unfortunately, too many clods don't listen to me).  Get to the range and burn some ammo.  Doing so will at least keep you from making the following four mistakes:

  • Finding out the hard way that you can't shoulder your rifle because what you are wearing is so thick you can't get the scope close enough to get a sight picture.
  • Sighting in your rifle with the scope on 10x and leaving it there instead of cranking it down to 4x.
  • Forgetting where your safety is, or how it works, or that you even have a safety.
  • Keeping the rifle slung over your shoulder, or worse, across your back.
* No, I have not begun writing in tongues.  This is a line (slightly modified) from a famous poet.  Can you name the man and the poem?  And stay the hell off Google.